The man is an “acid-stained” neo-dandy. Mainly known—check that, renowned for his womenswear and hip-hop mogul following. At first glance, you‘d think that’s quite the contrast to Berluti’s heritage as shoemaker-by-appointment to the likes of the Duke of Windsor and Charles de Gaulle. But contradictions do, at times, lead to revolutionary new ideas. And, Haider Ackermann—tapped to paint a new layer on the classic Berluti patina—brought them, in spades.
The Colombian was struck by “the idea of fashion that could develop over time”, and “the way in which a well-made pair of trousers or a coat become more attractive as they develop a patina.” It’s an approach that echoes Berluti’s massaged and painted Venezia leather wizardry, and the rainbow of colour it creates.
And colour his 2017 Fall-Winter Collection he did. Drawing inspiration from the woods and darkness, and “focusing on the concept of a man waking at dawn after a wealth of nocturnal experiences”, his new rakish fantasy for the brand opens it up to an edgier audience.
Key items like leather and suede jackets, cashmere knits, and tapered trousers were shown in earthy greens and tans. While hits of electric blue and pepto-pink on statement outerwear exuded a youthful and edgy energy that left the crowd wanting more. And, of course, as an emphatic nod to Berluti’s footwear ancestry, burnished lace-up shoes and boots crafted from the brand’s supple leathers marched down the runway too.
This debut collection certainly shows that Ackermann is indeed the perfect man to take Berluti to the next level. He’s brought his rebellious spirit and modern, relaxed designs to the brand’s world-renowned tailoring, all without making it a carbon-copy of his namesake label. So much so, that even the most hardened sartorial man is going to stop and take notice—right alongside his sworn contemporary foe.