For her inaugural solo collection, designer Virginie Viard gives a nod to both Coco and Karl—while ushering in the next chapter of Chanel
A New Era
For Cruise 2020, the Chanel girl is off on a journey of self-discovery. It only makes sense that designer Virginie Viard—stepping into Karl Lagerfeld’s shoes following his passing after working together for twenty years—would embrace the concept of travel with her inaugural collection.
For Resort 2020, the Chanel girl is off on a journey of self-discovery. It only makes sense that designer Virginie Viard—stepping into Karl Lagerfeld’s shoes following his passing after working together for twenty years—would embrace the concept of travel with her inaugural collection.
At the runway show, held at the Grand Palais, the Chanel mademoiselle finds herself at a turn-of-the-century train platform awaiting the start of her next adventure. Viard’s parade of garments skews more youthful than in collections past, yet keeps the legacies of both Lagerfeld and Coco Chanel herself within view.
A key piece of the late Lagerfeld’s uniform—the starched white shirt—comes in multiple iterations for all occasions. And Coco’s classic tweed jacket steps into newfound proportions, cropped, slouchily knit, or softened and stretched into a duster-style cardigan. Somber colours—white, black, and tobacco—make up much of the collection, but are broken up with theatrical pops of fuchsia and fire-engine red. Sailor-like stripes twinkle against a military green backdrop, while leather is paper-thin and feather-light.
Accessories recall a bygone era, with patent black-and-white heels and booties sliced to reveal the foot in a style that references spats. Jewellery features the iconic interlocking Cs, pearls, and chains woven into a très Coco mix.
By recognizing Chanel’s rich history while simultaneously looking ahead to a bright future, Viard has set a compelling new course for the French house that long-time fans and newcomers alike are sure to follow. All aboard!